North Twin Peak
3730m (12238ft.)

Located in the upper Athabasca River Valley adjacent to the northeastern part of the Columbia Icefield. Winston Churchill Range, Jasper Park, Alberta Major headwater Athabasca River.
Latitude 52; 13; 30 Longitude 117; 26; 00, Topo map 83C/03


Named by J. Norman Collie and Hugh M. Stutfield in 1898. "The Twins" is a double headed mountain, the northern one known as North Twin Peak and southern as "South Twin Peak." Official name.

First ascended in 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J. Monroe Thorington, guided by Conrad Kain. Journal reference CAJ 14-40.

Photo: South and North Twins (courtesy Tony Daffern)
More photos

Other Information
Photo: North Twin Peak, with Twins Tower at right, from the north on Mount Woolley (courtesy Paul Russell)

"When approached from the Columbia Icefield, The Twins present gentle snow and ice climbs. North Twin is, in fact, a popular ski ascent. To the north however, the North Twin drops vertically for over 1500 metres towards the Athabasca River. This face is world renowned amongst climbers." -Courtesy Chic Scott

James Outram wrote of these peaks, "Toward the north, above a sharp depression and beyond a magnificent cirque of rock and glacier that separates them from Mount Columbia, were the Twins, the loftier pure white and its brother darkly impressive."

North Twin is the highest mountain entirely in Alberta and the third highest in the Canadian Rockies.

See: South Twin Peak.

See: Twins Tower.

Climbing Routes
North Twin, East Slopes (Normal Route) I
A popular ski mountaineering target since it is possible to ski all the way to the summit. From there it is not uncommon for parties to also ascend either South Twin or Stutfield. An ice axe (at least) is recommended for the narrow ridge on South Twin. A long day trip from the road, it is often split into two days with a camp near the base of the east slopes of North Twin. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 222
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