Photo: Looking northwest to alpenglow on Mount Lefroy from Sentinel pass (courtesy Paul Russell)
- 3423 m (11,231ft)
- First Ascent
- Naming History
- Hiking and Trails
Located on the continental divide between Lefroy Glacier and Victoria Glacier; east buttress of Abbot Pass
Visible from Highway: 1, 93N
Ascent Party: H.B. Dixon, C.E. Fay, A. Michael, J.R. Vanderlip, C.L. Noyes, Charles Thompson, J. Norman Collie, C. Parker
Ascent Guide: Peter Sarbach
Named by: George Dawson
Named for: Lefroy, General Sir John Henry (General Lefroy was an astronomer and became the head of the Toronto Observatory. Between 1842 and 1844 he travelled over 8800 km in the Canadian north making magnetic and meterorological observations.)
Journal Reference: App 8-122, AJ 18-548
"Through a vertical opening in the cliffs at the head of the lake, Mount Lefroy looms in the distance, crowned with a helmet of perpetual snow and hanging glacier." -Walter Wilcox (Lake Louise Club -1900)
Together with Mount VictoriaAbbot Pass lies between the two, hidden behind Mount Lefroy from the Chateau viewpoint. A glacier begins at the pass and flows down a narrow gorge known as the "Death Trap" on the Alberta side of the pass.
The steep western slopes of Mount Lefroy were the scene of the first fatal climbing accident in the Canadian Rockies. Philip Abbot had considerable climbing experience, having climbed in the Alps. In 1895, together with Charles Fay, Charles Thompson, and others, he completed the first ascent of nearby Mount HectorNorman Collie and H.B. Dixon, together with guide Peter Sarbach, joined Fay's party. Exactly one year after the accident the party reached the summit. After a day's rest, Collie and Sarbach led the party that made the first ascent of Mount Victoria.
There is some confusion as to the history of the naming of Mount Lefroy, including suggestions that it was named by James Hector of the Palliser Expedition in 1858.
The only reference to the name "Mount Lefroy" in James Hector's journal entry was written while he was camped near Vermilion Pass. He wrote, "I then ascended the mountain to the east (likely Storm MountainMount BallMount WhymperWilliam Spotswood Green. When Green visited Silver City (near the present day Castle Junction) in 1888 and asked railway workers about Mount Lefroy they claimed they could see it from there. Green wrote, "They knew where Mount Lefroy was and it could have pointed out its peak to us but for the dense clouds of smoke, which made everything indistinct.? It?s not clear what the peak was that the two miners were referring to but the peak now known as Mount Lefroy is not visible from the site of Silver City.
When Green visited Lake Louise, he was of the opinion that the mountain now known as Mount Victoria was Mount Lefroy. He wrote, "At the end of the lake the great precipice of Mount Lefroy stood up in noble grandeur, a glacier sweeping round its foot came right down to the head of the lake." The caption of an accompanying drawing leaves no doubt that Green was referring to Mount Victoria.
George Dawson is likely the one who named Mount Lefroy. His 1886 map clearly shows Mount Lefroy in its current location although, oddly, there is no mention of Mount Victoria. It is not surprising that an eminent scientist such as Dawson would have been an admirer of General Sir John Henry Lefroy (1817-1890), an astronomer who was particularly interested in studying the magnetic declination from various locations in Canada and who eventually visited the site of the north magnetic pole.
A painting by Paul Kane sold for $4.6 million, more money than any other Canadian painting, in February, 2002. It featured Sir John Henry Lefroy, an astronomer who became the head of the Toronto Observatory. Between 1842 and 1844 he travelled over 8800 km in the Canadian north making magnetic and meteorological observations, eventually mapping the location of the northern magnetic pole.
[See Mount Kane]