Peak Finder

Photo: Looking west to Mount Kitchener from the Icefields Parkway at Sunwapta Pass

Mount Kitchener

  • 3505 m (11,500ft)
  • First Ascent
  • Naming History
52.2161N -117.321W
Located in the Upper Sunwapta River Valley north of Dome Glacier

Range: Winston Churchill
Province: Alberta
Park: Jasper
Headwater: Athabasca
Visible from Highway: 93N
Ascent Date: 1927
Ascent Party: Alfred Ostheimer
Ascent Guide: Hans Fuhrer
Year Named: 1916
Named for: Kitchener, Horatio Herbert (Viscount Kitchener was a British Field Marshall who organized the British armies at the beginning of WW I. He was lost when HMS Hampshire struck a mine in 1916.)

Mount Kitchener presents itself in a most spectacular fashion from the Icefields Parkway just north of Sunwapta Pass. Although its southwestern slopes are very gentle as the Columbia Icefield drapes itself from the summit, the near-vertical cliffs on the highway side looms impressively above the viewpoints on the Icefield Parkway.

Norman Collie named this mountain Mount Douglas after the well known botanist David Douglas, for which the Douglas Fir is named. The name was changed to Mount Kitchener in 1916 to honour Horatio Herbert, Viscount Kitchener who had recently died. Collie may not have been aware that Mount Douglas in the upper Red Deer Valley had been named after David Douglas in 1884.

The first ascent of Mount Kitchener was completed by Alfred Ostheimer and Hans Fuhrer during an impressive 36 hour outing from their base at the head of the Athabasca Valley. As well as climbing Mount Kitchener, they completed the first ascent of Stutfield Peak, North Twin Peak, Snow Dome. They reached the summit of Kitchener at 2:00 am.

Looking west to Mount Kitchener from Wilcox Pass (courtesy Gerry Hopkins)

Photo: Looking west to Mount Kitchener from the Icefields Parkway at Sunwapta Pass

Looking west to Mount Kitchener from Sunwapta Pass

Looking west to Mount Kitchener from the lower slopes of Mount Wilcox

Looking south-southeast to Mount Kitchener