Mount Tuzo
3246m (10650ft.)

Located on the continental divide in the Valley of the Ten Peaks between the Moraine Lake Valley and Tokumm Creek. The Ten Peaks, on the border of Banff & Kootenay parks, Alberta/BC border. Major headwaters Bow & Kootenay rivers.
Latitude 51; 18; 05 Longitude 116; 13; 45, Topo map 82N/08

Panorama viewpoint: Moraine Lake Road. Can be seen from Highway 1

Named in 1907. Tuzo, Henrietta L. (Miss Tuzo was a charter member of the Alpine Club of Canada and the first to climb Mount Tuzo. She is recognized as the first Canadian-born woman climber.) Official name. Other names Sagowa; #7 of the Ten Peaks

First ascended in 1906 by Henrietta L. Tuzo, guided by Christian Kaufmann.

Photo: Mount Allen (left) and Mount Tuzo from the Moraine Lake Road
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Other Information
Mount Tuzo (left) and Deltaform Mountain (courtesy Brenda Everitt)

Mount Tuzo is the most massive of the "Ten Peaks" when viewed from Moraine Lake.

One of the first mountains in the Canadian Rockies to be named in honour of a lady mountaineer is Mount Tuzo (Peak #7). Miss Henrietta "Hettie" Tuzo was the first to climb this peak. A charter member of the Alpine Club of Canada, Miss Tuzo had climbed several peaks in the Rockies and Selkirks when she and guide Christian Kaufmann made the ascent in 1906. They climbed the couloir between Mount Bowlen and Tonsa and then crossed a snowfield behind Peaks Four, Five, and Six en route to the peak. During the descent they narrowly avoided an avalanche during which, "huge boulders plowed down over our tracks." The mountain was renamed in her honour in 1907. Hettie's son, John Tuzo Wilson, became a well known Canadian geologist, particularly in the area of continental drift and plate tectonics.

Climbing Routes
Peak 7
Usually climbed via the S glacier and S ridge. The longest approach from the Colgan Hut. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 120
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