Mount Shackleton
3330m (10926ft.)

Located north of Shackleton Glacier, 8 km southeast of Mount Clemenceau. Park, Major headwater Columbia River.
Latitude 52; 11; 00 Longitude 117; 54; 30, Topo map 83C/04


Named in 1919. Shackleton, Sir Ernest Henry (Explorer Ernest Shackleton's party set off to try to be the first to cross Antarctica. Shackleton became a legendary figure for his actions to reach safety and rescue his crew following the destrucion of their ship.) Official name.

First ascended in 1951 by G.I. Bell; D. MichaelJournal reference AAJ 8-255.

Photo: Looking southeast to Mount Shackleton from the Tusk-Irvine col (courtesy Alan Kane)
More photos

Other Information
Photo: Looking south-southeast to Mount Shackleton (courtesy Rienk Lakeman)

Ernest Shackleton became a legendary figure in the history of Antarctic exploration following his attempt to be the first to cross the continent in 1914. Before he actually reached land, pack ice crushed his ship, the Endurance. Together with his 28 man crew, Shackleton sailed three wooden lifeboats through storm plagued seas to a deserted, wind swept island. With winter approaching and desperately short of supplies Shackleton led five of his crew on an incredible 1400 km sailing voyage to South Georgia Island. They then hiked 35 km to a whaling settlement. Several months later Shackleton returned to the island upon which he had left the remainder of his crew and brought them out alive.

Sir Ernest Peak is an outlier of Mount Shackleton that lies one kilometre to the northeast.

If you're interested in Shackleton T-Shirts and posters featuring the incredible photographs taken by Frank Hurley during this epic event visit www.endurancedesigns.com .

Climbing Routes
North-West Ridge II
If approaching from the north, the crux of the route is undoubtedly finding a safe route through the spectacular Duplicate-Tusk icefall. The ridge is exposed but cornices are not too much of a problem and the climbing is straightforward. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 236

North Face II
Similar in character to the N face of Athabasca but with a much more challenging approach. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 238

Traverse III 5.5
The first traverse of the mountain was quite a tour-de-force that also included the first ascent of the W ridge of Pic Tordu. A highly recommended outing if traverses are your big thing. The first ascent party bivied once but two nights out would be necessary if you plan on the long walk back to the hut around Duplicate. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 238

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