Mount Geikie
3270m (10729ft.)

Located in the Fraser River Valley between Geikie Creek Valley and Tonquin Creek. The Ramparts, Mount Robson Park, Major headwater Fraser River.
Latitude 52; 42; 55 Longitude 118; 23; 25, Topo map 83D/09


Named by James McEvoy in 1898. Geikie James and Archibald (The Geikie brothers became famous for their studies of glaciology.) Official name.

First ascended in 1924 by V.A. Fynn, M.D. Geddes, C.G. Wates,Journal reference AJ 36-344; CAJ 4-11, 13-53, 14-53.

Photo: (l-r) Bastion Peak, Turret Mountain, Mount Geikie, and Barbican Peak from the east on Maccarib Pass

Other Information
Photo: Mount Geikie (left) and Barbican Peak tower in the distance beyond Mount Rockingham from the west end of Moose Lake on Highway #16

In his book, "The Glittering Mountains of Canada," J. Monroe Thorington described Mount Geikie from above Icefall Lake as, "a tremendous grim wall it is, seared and fissured by ice-filled couloirs, and surmounted by two fine towers sprinkled with new snow."

Mountain enthusiasts will enjoy watching Mount Geikie and Barbican Peak during the drive from Mount Robson to Jasper National Park. From just west of Moose Lake, if the conditions are good, Mount Geikie, with Barbican Peak to its right, loom 11 kilometres beyond Mount Rockingham. Mount Geikie is an impressive 750 metres (2500 feet) higher with steep cliffs on both sides. For the next 25 km or so as one approaches Mount Rockingham, the distant peaks appear to slowly descend behind the nearer mountain.

James Geikie (1839-1914) was a Scottish geologist noted for his contribution to mapping the geology of Scotland. Geikie joined the Geological Survey under the supervision of his brother, and was charged with mapping glacial deposits in the Scottish landscape. While investigating this, he believed he had found evidence of warmer periods punctuating the ice ages. Having little conclusive evidence, he hesitated at first, but growing evidence from studies of the continental Europe convinced him he was right. His view is still accepted today. He wrote the standard work of the day on the glacial period and succeeded his brother Archibald as Professor of Geology at the University of Edinburgh, a post which he held until 1914.

Climbing Routes
South-East Face (Normal Route) IV 5.5
A remote climb. However, if you make the effort to get there, you'll find a very reasonable route to the top of the highest mountain in the Tonquin. It is also a long climb, being almost 1500 m from the Blue Inkwell to the summit. 8-12 hours up and a similar time for the descent. Most likely if you make the effort to do this route you will also be interested in other possibilities on this side of the Ramparts. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 260

North Face, Lowe/Hannibal VI 5.10b A3
A 1500 m face that is split in two halves: a lower 750 m rock face below a 750 m mixed alpine face. The Lowe/Hannibal takes the obvious, aesthetic rib in the middle of the rock face; an uncompromising line which gives interesting and sustained climbing throughout. Being another of the "grand-cours" routes, the climb is involved and technical, particularly the headwall of the lower face. However, the protection and belays are solid, unlike on so many other grand-cours. The rock throughout the lower half is solid quartzite, offering steep climbing on good holds with some wild exposure. The upper face is at a much lower angle and involves quite a bit of scrambling followed by various bits and pieces of ice. Pack your rock rack and your ice gear - you'll use all of it. Rock shoes are highly recommended. Water is a problem on the headwall so grab it when you can. The first ascent party took almost six days. It has since been climbed in two days. A reasonable estimate is two bivis on the face and one on the descent. Dougherty, Selected Alpine Climbs page 263

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